The woman shall not wear that which
pertaineth unto a man, neither shall a man put on a
woman's garment: for all that do so are abomination
unto the Lord thy God.
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Deuteronomy 22:5
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The Church has traditionally held views on transvestism similar
to those on homosexuality. In support it has been able to cite
Deuteronomy 22:5:
The woman shall not wear that which pertaineth unto a man,
neither shall a man put on a woman's garment: for all that
do so are abomination to the Lord thy God.
So it was that one of the main accusations against Joan of
Arc, which ensured her death at the stake, was that she insisted
on wearing men's clothes.
Joan was convicted and condemned for
transvestism by the Catholic Church.
They made point of burning her in orthodox female attire.
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Transvestism was also one of the reasons the Church so disapproved
of theatre. Having forced women off the stage acting troupes
had no choice but for men to play women's parts, and right-thinking
Christians found this nearly as bad as seeing real women on
stage.
Rational Dress Reformers campaigned for women to be able to
wear trousers.. They claimed that corsets and heavy skirts made
women prisoners of their own clothes, arguing that traditional
clothes were unhygienic. Turning the conservatives' argument
around they also argued that traditional clothes were immoral
because they changed a woman's shape for fashion. Pro-corset
conservatives argued that looking respectable and being properly
dressed was a Christian lady's duty, however uncomfortable it
might be. When Amelia Bloomer lobbied in her newspaper for a
shorter dress over loose "bloomer pants," (worn during
exercise) she was widely ridiculed, Practical clothing, like
exercise, was too radical. Both were considered dangerous by
traditional Christians. Christian doctors advised against them,
claiming (falsely) that they would damage womens' fertility.
"Bloomers" became a staple of music-halls, and the
word is still used with mockery today.
Women dressing as men was considered immodest and immoral,
and contrary to the bible. Rules had been enforced by Church
Wardens but from the nineteenth century they were enforced by
newly formed police forces. Rules were enforced, even in places
with a reputation for relative freedom. Municipal records in
San Francisco show that one "Marie Susie" lobbied
the Board of Aldermen for the right to wear pants during the
Gold Rush-era, noting that she had worn "masculine habiliments"
for twenty years previously, and wished to be protected against
arrest for doing so.
Women were prosecuted for obscenity in the early twentieth
century for wearing trouser suits their sentences were
less severe than in earlier times, but only because the Church
was no longer able to enforce its views as strictly as it could
in the Middle Ages. Prosecutions were brought in the UK, USA
and Europe within living memory.
The photograph below is one is Dr. Mary
Edwards Walker (1832 1919) an American feminist,
abolitionist, and surgeon. She advocated health care,
temperance, women's rights and dress reform for women.
She was widely criticised and ridiculed by Christians
for failing to follow biblical injunctions about transvestism.
She is currently the only woman ever to receive the US
Medal of Honor.
Prior to the American Civil War she earned
her medical degree, married and started a medical practice.
She volunteered with the Union Army at the outbreak of
the American Civil War and served as a surgeon. She is
the only woman to receive the US Medal of Honor and one
of only eight civilians to receive it. She was frequently
arrested for wearing men's clothing. Her name was deleted
from the Army Medal of Honor Roll in 1917. She died in
1919 and was buried in her black suit. During the Second
World WarI, a Liberty ship, the SS Mary Walker, was named
after her. Many medical establishments are also named
after her. Her medal was restored in 1977.
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Even after becoming nominally secular in 1789 France continued
to persecute women for wearing men's apparel, formalized by
law. A law dating from November 1799, requires "any woman
wishing to dress in men's clothing to obtain authorization from
the préfecture de police". It was amended in 1892
and 1909 allow women to wear trousers "if the woman is
holding a bicycle handlebar or the reins of a horse." Some
départements passed their own laws criminalizing "transvestisme".
The département de la Seine for example criminalized
the practice in the early twentieth century by an arrêté
préfectoral of Louis Lépine. Women in Paris needed
to apply to the police for a special license to "dress
as men" until 31 January 2013 when the law was abrogated
by Najat Vallaud-Belkacem, France's minister of women's rights.
Until then, police could arrest women for wearing trousers without
a license, as they did frequently up to the 1950s.
Today only the most conservative Christians rail against women
wearing trousers. A Google search on the topic of "Christian
women wearing men clothing" will reveal a plethora of modern
Christian sects holding the traditional line in the West. In
the East, Orthodox and Coptic bishops also hold the traditional
line. In July. 2014, Bishop Bishoy of Damietta and Kafr El-Sheikh
governorates ordered signs to be put in churches in his diocese
stating that all ladies and girls above the age of 11
should refrain from wearing trousers, blouses or make-up during
the sacrament of holy communion in the divine liturgy, and they
should wear modest dress.
Curiously,
the prohibition on cross-dressing does not seem to apply to
churchmen, and it is not difficult to identify a distinct enthusiasm
for fashionable clothing and demeanour more usually associated
with women outside the Christian Church.
Infallible Church Councils in the early years of the Church
strictly prohibitted distinctive dress for Christian clerics,
but somehow the draw of frocks, gowns and robes was irresistible.
By 1215 these modes of dress were not merely permitted but obligatory.
High Churchmen seem particularly drawn to the extensive use
of white lace, colourful fashionable gowns, girdles, and exotic
headwear, especially in Catholic and Anglo-Catholic ("High
Church") denominations.
One cannot help but wonder how readers
interpreted this
nineteenth century cartoon when it was first published.
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Simple yet elegant modern dresses for
fashionable young clergymen
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Parading the skull of Saint Ivo of Kermartin
in France
An opportunity to practice transvestism and necrophilia
at the same time.
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From 2012 Clerical Catalogues
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A guide to Clerical Clothing for German
Catholics
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Orthodox Priests like these hit the headlines
in 2014 for criticising, Conchita Wurst, a transvestite
who won the Eurovision Song Contest. Their ire was drawn
by the fact that Conchita was a bearded man who wore a
dress, a combination that they seem to have found particularly
offensive.
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NewAglican Ordinands in unisex outfits
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Pope Tawadros II, Patriarch of
Alexandria, at Midnight Mass in 2012 in Cairo
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Pope Tawadros II, Patriarch of
Alexandria and another Coptic bishop, 2012
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Catalogue - Clerical or Fancy dress?
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"Soapy Sam" Wiberforce, ninteenth
century Bishop of Oxford
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Coptic Pope
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Catalogue - Clerical or Fancy dress?
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Roman Catholic Pope
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Saint Jerome in a dress,
The Cloisters Collection, New York Metropolitan
Museum of Art,
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Bishop or fashion icon?
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Bishop or fashion icon?
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Bishop Domenico Mogavero, the bishop
of Mazara del Vallo in Sicily,
showing off his new silk robes designed by Giorgio Armani
(3 May 2011)
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an Orthodox Priest
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A cardinal wearing a traditional cardinal's
hat,
now rarely seen (except on coats of arms) for obvious
reasons.
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A selection of clerical accessories
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Orthodox priests also dress up
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Colour coordinated clerics
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Anglican clericsdress up too
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